Weight
This is just a simple barbell weight from a sports store. The one shown in the picture is 2.5 pounds, but you can buy any weight you want. But, anything heavier than 5 pounds starts getting too heavy to carry around. Get a weight that has a 1" diameter hole. These are about $3.

You'll want to make this really tight because this is where your camera attaches. You want it tight not because it'll fall off or anything, but because putting the camera on and taking it off requires lots of turning action. If it loosens, the bolt will pivot around as will your camera making hard it to keep still. If this happens while you're filming, you'll have to stop and find a wrench. This schematic view may be a little clearer than the pictures.

Use a hammer to dent the center of the flange washer. You can do this by putting the washer across the hole of the weight, putting the head of the bolt on the hole, and hammer the bolt. You want to have the center area of the washer higher than the rim. So when you attached the mount to the camera, as shown in the right picture, the rim of the washer pushes up against the area around the bolt. This washer will distribute the force away from the single point of contact. So, the wider the washer the better. If you don't use the washer, the camera will shake a lot right at this connection as well as putting a great deal of stress on this one tiny spot that could damage your camera. So if you lose this washer, I don't recommend using this steady cam without it.

Use your fingers to tighten the wing nut on the mounting. DO NOT use a wrench. You may risk stripping the threads on your camera or breaking the tripod mount. Both are equally bad.

You'll need the barbell weight and the parts shown in the pictures below. They'll go together in the pattern shown in the next picture. The bolt goes through two washers that sandwich the weight. Then stick on the end cap, put on the lock washer, and then finally the nut. Hand tighten the parts until they are snug. This schematic view may be a little clearer than the pictures.

The lock washer deep inside the end cap will keep a grip on the nut. So, you don't have to stick pliers down there to turn it. Just turn the cap. Stick the cap in the vise shown on the bottom left. Then you can use the screwdriver to tighten the bolt, or just grab the weight and turn it. The weight should turn the bolt, and the vise will keep the cap from turning.

I like to tighten it until the outer washer starts to bend inwards. This reduces the amount the bolt sticks out - good for when you want to put it down on the base. If you do use the base as stand (not highly recommended because it's easy to knock over), you can buy rounded bolts and little rubber feet. These will make a much nicer base that won't wobble. You can tell I like to do this and I say it easy to knock over from experience. My camera still seems to work okay, though.

The side handle is used to stabilize side-to-side rocking. The vertical shaking is pretty much dampened by the weight. You may hold it however you'd like. The way I like holding it is shown in the picture. How you use it is 80% of the smoothness. This even is true for the professional stuff with all the fancy shocks and hydraulics. Don't expect this thing to perform miracles, you have to practice using your arms and body to create a smooth motion. Watch your hands while you walk, and see how level you can keep them relative to the ground. Watching the shadow of your hands on a sunny say is an easy way to isolate thier movement. Keep your legs bent and learn how to "glide". I talked with someone who has used professional steady-cams and they said this was, "really, just as good." Getting good results is not so much about the equipment, but how you use it. That's really true about everything.

WARNING: Improper or irresponsible use of a steadycam can quickly result in the destruction of your equipment and/or injury to yourself and others. Be careful, watch where you are going, pay attention to where you are swinging your camera, and just try not to do anything stupid for your own sake.

Here is some example footage of the steadycam in use. These are for educational and demonstration purposes only. If you really enjoy the music used in these clips, I encourage you to support the artists by purchasing thier recordings. NOTE: These samples, as well as all of my own films, were captured with a $300 Sony Digital 8 Camcorder (the cheapest digital camcorder you can buy).

	Duration/Size:0:13/617KB Description: Sprinting down a hallway with camera about 3-6 inches from the ground. Uses the inverting bracket to position the camera near the ground. Notes: The vertical motion is clean, even around the turn and up the ramp. There is a little side-to-side motion because I was only using one hand and not using the side handle. I did this run cold without any practice. You should really practice a scene a few times and get used to what you'll have to do before you try to record it.
	Duration/Size:0:33/1.2MB Description: Tracking fast moving/running subjects playing soccer. Notes: This involves running along side and around a soccer player during practice. The steadycam and the inverting bracket are the only pieces of equipment used. Also demonstrates some of the dangers of field recording in active environments. Music Credit: Squirrel Nut Zippers [amazon.com]
	Duration/Size:1:00/1.4MB Description: Competitive squash player practicing. The reason she is hitting softly is because she would probably kill me otherwise. :) Notes: Lots of circular panning around a moving subject. Uses inverting bracket to dramatize viewing angle. Music Credit: YoYo Ma [amazon.com]
	Duration/Size:1:31/4MB Description: Tracking a subject walking through various environments. Notes: Fairly complex camera control, some not acheivable with many commerical stablizers. Rising from ground level to shoulder level while in motion, steep camera pitching, stair navigation, circular panning around subject while ascending a stairwell. Music Credit: Take Care of My Cat Soundtrack [yesasia.com]